4/30/2023 0 Comments Vintage movado watch![]() The long lugs are distinctly architectural but with curves and rounded edges. First and foremost, I’d like to say: those lugs. The second calendar watch is the more elaborate Movado Gentleman’s “Celestograph” C 476142 44929 that was made in 1950. With 17 jewels and operating at 18,000 vph, this movement was produced between 19. 475 Calendograf movement (not to be confused with the watch’s name “Calendograph”) but with a central seconds hand, as opposed to a sub-dial. 475 SC movement used here is the base Cal. The font used on the outer date ring sparks much typographical joy for me. But, as with almost everything, it’s all about the little things. The proportions are right, the applied indices are a work of art, the flat bezel ties the whole thing together, and I love the uniformly gold color scheme extending even to the top of the lollipop date indicator hand. I try not to use the word “elegant” so much, but it’s difficult to describe it in any other way. The Movado Calendograph D474007 14952 is the quintessential classic calendar watch from the many produced by the brand. These are some of Movado’s most well-known and desirable vintage watches, but I was fortunate to get my hands on two of these models. Movado produced quite a few calendar watches in the mid-20th century, first beginning to appear when their “Calendograph” movement was developed in 1945. A98611 19048 just about topped the list for me. There are several other historic Movado chronographs I was also taken with, and maybe I’ll also share those in the future, but the Ref. Steel case with silvered dial, the hands are blued with the hour and minute hands filled with lume. While on the topic of the 60-minute sub-dial, I can’t be the only person who is smitten with that squiggly hand. A98611 19048 I’m talking about here has seconds and 60-minute sub-dials only. Later would come the Calibre 95 M that added a 12-hour counter, but the Ref. The Calibre 90 M featured a 60-minute chronograph counter, 17-jewels, and was stamped with “Movado Factories” which you can see if you were to open a case back of one of these watches (alas, I didn’t get quite so intimate with the watches). The manual Calibre 90 M chronograph movement was produced by Movado from 1938 through around 1965. Just a fun fact I wanted to share, though the watch you see above wouldn’t come into being until 1940. Something I was admittedly ignorant about was how Movado was behind one of the first split-seconds wristwatch chronographs in 1921 under the “Ralco” name. This kind of typography is my weakness, and this might top most contemporary world time watches out there. The contrast of the applied gold indices and hour markers with the orange/black 24-hour ring is what compelling design that doesn’t need to be obvious is all about for me. The automatic movement measures just about 28mm-wide and 4.65mm-thin, has 17 jewels, and operates at 18,000 vph. 129 from about 1950 through 1965, and this watch is one of the first to use it. 125 movement and adds the world time module to it. The movement used on the Polygraph is the Cal. Turning the bezel allows you to match the time zone of the desired city with the red crescent 24-hour hand. In a 37mm-wide case, the Polygraph world time watch has a rotating bezel that is thin but easy to grip due to the deep milling done on it. The Movado “Polygraph” World Time was done in gold or steel (which is the Ref. Click here for all of the details.While these are in no particular order, I did have to start with the watch I was most tempted to abscond with. ![]() It's a compelling model if you are into a military chronograph but with a slightly unusual dial and a little less damage to your wallet. Plus, it's fitted with a manual-wound Valjoux 7731, which is in the same family of the true workhorse chronograph movement, Valjoux 7730, often used in vintage Breitlings and Heuers. As an homage to the name, the caseback is adorned with an anchor overlapped with a ship's wheel, which adds to the charm. With the wide-set bezel and the semi-serrated edges, it makes turning the bezel easy, even with gloves on. It even has the stars, not just one star like the Zenith, but there are ten red stars on this Bulova. It shares the oversized 43mm steel case with strong faceted lugs, classic 2-register black dial, tritium luminous markers, and hands that are painted in white. The similarity is uncanny with the aforementioned Zenith Cairelli, which goes for two to three times more. Here, we have the 1970s Bulova Marine Star which has all the elements of a desirable military chronograph.
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